MPC Taurus-1
- bernomatic
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#1 MPC Taurus-1
So why finish one of my other builds? Let's just start something new!
Received via mail from an unnamed benefactor, The Taurus was a gift to show special accoutrements added to kits by MPC when they were in the model rocketry biz (I'll go into those in a later post).
The design is a 4FNC with some optional additions
The kit was in decent shape when I received it, with the exception of the nose cone having swelled a bit over time to the point it didn't quite fit in the Body Tube. Speaking of the Body Tube, MPC used a non-Estes size tube here, my calipers are saying a 14.38mm I.D. by a 15.14mm O.D. This is basically a slip fit over the standard Estes BT-5. That brings me to the next unique feature of this kit. The "engine mount" is just a 13mm tube with an engine block that is slip fitted into the main body tube. The engine mount tube tube is 57.3mm long with the 4.5mm engine block being shown in the directions as positioned flush with one end. This leaves 52.8mm for the mini-engine, which means if I plan to use this with the available Estes mini-engines I'll either need an adapter or to reposition the engine block. In reading through the directions, I note that the "Minijet" model rocket engines to be used with this model were available in a B total thrust variant. It is too bad they are no longer available.
Received via mail from an unnamed benefactor, The Taurus was a gift to show special accoutrements added to kits by MPC when they were in the model rocketry biz (I'll go into those in a later post).
The design is a 4FNC with some optional additions
The kit was in decent shape when I received it, with the exception of the nose cone having swelled a bit over time to the point it didn't quite fit in the Body Tube. Speaking of the Body Tube, MPC used a non-Estes size tube here, my calipers are saying a 14.38mm I.D. by a 15.14mm O.D. This is basically a slip fit over the standard Estes BT-5. That brings me to the next unique feature of this kit. The "engine mount" is just a 13mm tube with an engine block that is slip fitted into the main body tube. The engine mount tube tube is 57.3mm long with the 4.5mm engine block being shown in the directions as positioned flush with one end. This leaves 52.8mm for the mini-engine, which means if I plan to use this with the available Estes mini-engines I'll either need an adapter or to reposition the engine block. In reading through the directions, I note that the "Minijet" model rocket engines to be used with this model were available in a B total thrust variant. It is too bad they are no longer available.
Chief Cook -n- bottle washer
- bernomatic
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#2 Re: MPC Taurus-1
Another unique feature of this kit is the shock cord and the shock cord anchor
What I believe is the shock cord (no parts list was included in the instructions) appears to be some twisted cordage about 44.5cm long. This will be replaced by me with elastic cotton ribbon.
The anchor is a cardstock tab with three holes punched in it. I have seen this type of anchor mentioned before, but not come across it.
What I believe is the shock cord (no parts list was included in the instructions) appears to be some twisted cordage about 44.5cm long. This will be replaced by me with elastic cotton ribbon.
The anchor is a cardstock tab with three holes punched in it. I have seen this type of anchor mentioned before, but not come across it.
Chief Cook -n- bottle washer
- bernomatic
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#3 Re: MPC Taurus-1
I know this is a basic skill level one kit, but with it's unique features I thought thought it worth a thread.
so here goes...
First is gluing the engine block into the engine mount. I'm placing it flush to the end of the engine mount and will cut a spacer for the smaller Estes mini engines as soon as I get finished berating myself for forgetting to replace the memory card back in the camera after downloading some pictures...
so here goes...
First is gluing the engine block into the engine mount. I'm placing it flush to the end of the engine mount and will cut a spacer for the smaller Estes mini engines as soon as I get finished berating myself for forgetting to replace the memory card back in the camera after downloading some pictures...
Chief Cook -n- bottle washer
#4 Re: MPC Taurus-1
I think I've mentioned this technique before when working with balsa nose cones, It's quick and easy.
First Screw in the eye bolt: Unscrew the bolt, place a dab of glue in the hole and reinsert the bolt, Place a dab of glue around the bolt shank: After the glue has dried, hold the cone by the bolt and submerge up to the cone shoulder in balsa filler coat: After removing from the filler coat, I usually hold the cone over the container till the drops falling off the tip are about 30 seconds apart: After that I Invert the cone so the tip is facing up and place it in it's body tube and set it aside to dry.
First Screw in the eye bolt: Unscrew the bolt, place a dab of glue in the hole and reinsert the bolt, Place a dab of glue around the bolt shank: After the glue has dried, hold the cone by the bolt and submerge up to the cone shoulder in balsa filler coat: After removing from the filler coat, I usually hold the cone over the container till the drops falling off the tip are about 30 seconds apart: After that I Invert the cone so the tip is facing up and place it in it's body tube and set it aside to dry.
Commander
Starport Sagitta
NAR No.97971
Starport Sagitta
NAR No.97971
- bernomatic
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#6 Re: MPC Taurus-1
A couple coats of Sanding Sealer to the fins:
Some sanding:
and the fins are ready for attaching to the body tube:
Commander
Starport Sagitta
NAR No.97971
Starport Sagitta
NAR No.97971
#7 Re: MPC Taurus-1
As mentioned earliier, I planned on replacing the cordage supplied for the shock cord with an elastic thread. I weaved the thread through the 3 holes in the supplied card...
I used the same basic procedure here, but had a problem when I removed the vice grips. The elastic thread I used was much stiffer than the typical elastic ribbon, rubber band, or cordage. The net result was that the body tube now had some bumps in it at the anchor spot.
and mounted in the body tube far enough aft to allow for the nose cone shoulder. Now when mounting the Estes tri-fold shock cord anchor, I use a vice grip, with a scrap piece of balsa on the outside of the body tube, to clamp the mount in place.I used the same basic procedure here, but had a problem when I removed the vice grips. The elastic thread I used was much stiffer than the typical elastic ribbon, rubber band, or cordage. The net result was that the body tube now had some bumps in it at the anchor spot.
Commander
Starport Sagitta
NAR No.97971
Starport Sagitta
NAR No.97971
#8 Re: MPC Taurus-1
To maintain the body tube strength when I have a divot, kink or other reason to sand off the outer layer of the tube (I know that layer has a name, but can't recall it at the moment), I usually spread a layer of CNA glue over the area, let it harden and lightly sand again.
If the area requires massive sanding to the point where it starts to deform from even slight pressure, I have some kraft paper packing tape. I apply a small square, coat with the glue, then sand smooth. This also works for punctures and zippers.
If the area requires massive sanding to the point where it starts to deform from even slight pressure, I have some kraft paper packing tape. I apply a small square, coat with the glue, then sand smooth. This also works for punctures and zippers.
Commander
Starport Sagitta
NAR No.97971
Starport Sagitta
NAR No.97971
- Joe Wooten
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#9 Re: MPC Taurus-1
FSI had those type of anchors. I've got a Viking II and Viking IV that have them that I built over 20 years ago and they are still holding.bernomatic wrote:Another unique feature of this kit is the shock cord and the shock cord anchor
P9290003.JPG
What I believe is the shock cord (no parts list was included in the instructions) appears to be some twisted cordage about 44.5cm long. This will be replaced by me with elastic cotton ribbon.
The anchor is a cardstock tab with three holes punched in it. I have seen this type of anchor mentioned before, but not come across it.
- luke strawwalker
- Space Admiral
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#10 Re: MPC Taurus-1
Yeah what Joe said... FSI anchors... If you stick them far enough down the tube to not interfere with the chute they're probably fine (though I've never used them). Sorta an alternative on par with the "Estes teabag" type tri-fold anchors... (which I usually use and they work fine so long as they're placed BELOW the parachute/shroud lines... course I also clamp mine up with hemostats while the glue dries around the cord and then curve them to conform snugly to the tube wall to minimize the possibility of it snagging or hanging up the chute or shock cord at ejection).Joe Wooten wrote:FSI had those type of anchors. I've got a Viking II and Viking IV that have them that I built over 20 years ago and they are still holding.bernomatic wrote:Another unique feature of this kit is the shock cord and the shock cord anchor
P9290003.JPG
What I believe is the shock cord (no parts list was included in the instructions) appears to be some twisted cordage about 44.5cm long. This will be replaced by me with elastic cotton ribbon.
The anchor is a cardstock tab with three holes punched in it. I have seen this type of anchor mentioned before, but not come across it.
Thing is, with the 3 hole one, I know you're supposed to thread the shock cord "string" through the three holes, under and up through the first hole, over and down through the second hole, and then up and out the third hole, with a knot or something to secure the end of the line... (another obstruction sticking out of the wall IMHO). Or else over the end down through the first hole, down and up out of the second hole, and then down and through the third hole, and under it and out past the bottom of the mount, with a knot in it to secure it... at least then the knot lays flatter against the wall of the tube and a little lower... Meh I think I'll stick to my "Estes teabags" or if I use kevlar leader go around the motor mount...
Later! OL J R
My MUNIFICENCE is BOUNDLESS, Mr. Bond...